Sunday: Sicilian Specialties at Ferdinando's Focacceria

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A South Brooklyn staple since 1904, Ferdinando's Focacceria is a perfect spot for a low-key Sunday lunch. Over a century ago, Ferdinando's (then called "Paul's") served sandwiches to the neighborhood's Italian immigrant population, many of whom worked at the nearby piers. Frank Buffa, the present proprietor who immigrated from Sicily in 1971, took the reins of the restaurant in 1975 and, as the story goes, changed the name to Ferdinando's in honor of his father in law who previously ran the place and passed away that year. 

While the neighborhood's demographic has changed quite a bit since the 1970's, the remaining regulars and other curious culinary types continue to travel to this eatery on the edge of Carroll Gardens to taste some old-school Sicilian specialties. First time visitors should try the arancina, a fried rice ball stuffed with chopped meat, peas and sauce, which also comes as a "special," smothered in cheese and more tomato sauce. It's good.

The panelle, a fried chickpea fritter, served plain or on a roll with cheese, is also a popular plate. But, if you are feeling adventurous, order the vastedda sandwich: veal spleen topped with ricotta and grated caciocavallo cheese.   

arancina special at ferdinando's focacceria

arancina special at ferdinando's focacceria

The sandwich is certainly not for everyone. If you order it, your server will likely confirm that you do, in fact, know what it is. But, should your intrepid tendencies end up steering you wrong and you discover that you can't stomach the sandwich, don't be embarrassed; a lot of longtime locals aren't too keen on spleen either. On a recent visit, a group of 50 year old fellas who went to high school together just down the street whispered to each other while observing the first few bites of a neighboring vastedda virgin ("Look... he got the vastedda"). One leaned over and confided, "I end up ordering that every two years or so and then realize I still don't like it."

Since everything is pretty inexpensive, go ahead and order a back up plate of panelle and wash everything down with a Peroni. For those who love New York history, replace the beer with a "Manhattan Special." This classic coffee soda drink is made in Brooklyn since 1895 and tastes like an overly sweetened and carbonated espresso. Ferdinando's is the only place in New York that still serves it on tap, and while it's an acquired taste, it's definitely worth a try at least once. 

ESSENTIAL INFO:

-Total Cost: About $25 per person for a couple Sicilian dishes and a beer. Tax and tip included. 

-While Ferdinando's is fine for dinner, the food always seems to taste better at lunch. 

-Ferdinando's serves beer and wine only. No hard stuff.

-While Ferdinando's does not accept reservations, you will have no problem getting a table pretty much any time of day.

NEARBY: After lunch, take a 15 minute walk along Union Street and stop by Royal Palms Shuffleboard Club. This perpetually mobbed place is much more chill on an early Sunday afternoon, so you can play without any wait. 

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