Dinner at Barbuto, a West Village standby for seasonal Italian fare by celebrity chef Jonathan Waxman, can be a dramatically different experience depending on the season. While the food is consistently very good (more on that below), the atmosphere fluctuates with the weather.

Walk in during the winter and you hit a cacophonous wall of sound. The acoustics of this former garage, with its concrete floor and spare brick walls, put the "din" in "dinner," as diners engage in a vicious cycle of decibel escalation.

But, some relief from the auditory assault can be had when the weather warms and the garage doors retract, opening up the airy room and instantly making your meal a full on al fresco affair. There is no better spot for dinner on a spring or summer evening than Barbuto.

Over the clamor of conversation, the clang of pots and pans can be heard emanating from the open kitchen, where the crew executes dishes from a menu that changes daily. Despite the hyper-seasonal approach to cooking, there are some perennial plates that keep longtime Waxman loyalists coming back.

*pollo al forno: JW Chicken & Salsa Verde*

Let's begin with the bird. Much has been written about Waxman's famous pollo al forno, the poultry receiving high praise from almost every food publication that reviews it. The best dressed chicken in town is pan roasted in a wood-burning oven and topped with salsa verde, a hefty plate of "Holy sh*t that's good." If you're one to never order chicken at a restaurant because you can make it yourself, Barbuto is where you dispense with such pretense. Split that bird with a buddy or special someone, throw in an off menu order of the chitarra alla carbonara, plus a side of deep fried potatoes with pecorino and rosemary, and you're all set for a spectacular dinner.

Between the setting, service and sustenance, it should come as no surprise that securing a seat any night of the week can be a challenge, since there are many others who share the same aforementioned sentiments. Make it a midweek meal, manage expectations and you'll be fine. Should you score one of the coveted streetside perches for people watching, savor it and know that the envious eyes of passersby wish they belonged to you.

ESSENTIAL INFO:

-Total Cost: About $75 per person to split the chicken, a pasta and a side, plus a couple of drinks each. Tax and tip included.

-Barbuto only accepts reservations for parties of three or more. Parties of two are seated on a first come, first serve basis.

NEARBY: Hit up "Way Back Wednesday" at Anfora for a $10 cocktail featuring the "Spirit of the Month." If you're in the mood to dance, just up the street you'll find Club Cielo, where admission is complimentary with an open vodka bar until 11:00 PM on Wednesday evenings.